León

11pm
Hostal Alda Casco Antiguo

At this point, I’m sure you’ve picked up on the fact that walking is a rather huge part of this whole Camino thing. And it is. But one thing I’ve realized over the last few days, is that this stage we’re in now is probably considered the "mental" stage in part because walking really isn’t the big show. It’s rough, being right along the road and often HOT, and in that way it certainly presents its own challenges. As I’ve described in my last few posts. But the repetitive scenery and miles and miles of straight, unending road provides very little for us to do but think, think, think (and sweat). To that end, I don’t have much to report from the walking portion of the day, except that it was HOOOTTTTT. With some uphills and very few places to stop and rest and enjoy a cool beverage. But it was beautiful! And a bit more to look at than we’ve seen recently.





Today we once again reconnected with Jose and Dante. We thought they were miles ahead, but they just spaced their days a little differently and we all ended up in Mansilla and then León together! We saw Jose first, as Dante had gotten a little earlier start. Of course Jose had two new people to introduce us to, Francisco and Gabriela, from Mexico. We walked and talked with them for the first few kilometers of the day, connecting over our shared love of the Camino and shared feeling that it’s WILDLY difficult. We talked about the fact that the Camino is walked by both multimillionaires and those who barely have two euros to rub together, and yet nobody can tell the difference. We all wear our smelly shirts and dirty shoes and full packs. It doesn’t matter here. We are all the same. Why can’t we take that home?

We all laughed when Francisco asked, "And showers. Have you ever felt this way about a shower?" It was that knowing, comforting shared laughter when you know you all really understand each other and can relate. That, "this isn’t normal and nobody else gets it," kind of laugh. And it brought tears to my eyes. I felt like I had known Francisco for years, and it had been minutes.

We walked on, and it started to heat up big time. We didn’t get the early start we hoped for (almost 9am when we set out, our latest yet!) so we were kicking ourselves for the heat that crept up. But we wouldn’t have seen Jose or Francisco or Gabriela. It’s all ok.

We climbed more than we have in a week or so, up and up and up, in the hot hot heat. At one point we stopped and sat on a curb behind a concrete wall because it was the only shade we could see. And Pablo was there! Our new friend from El Salvador. The US Army veteran. So nice to see him again. After our stop, we climbed the rest of the hill, right in between Jose and Dante. And at the top, we looked to our left to find a stunning and welcome view. LEON!! Where we will rest tomorrow. We took a route into that appears to be temporary, judging by the signage we saw along the way. Maybe construction is blocking the traditional Camino way. But I wouldn’t change a thing. The descent into the city was so cool. Climbing down a rocky dirt path with the whole gorgeous town laid out before us. Wow.

When we got into town, Dante said he received a glowing recommendation for a Mexican restaurant in town. SAY NO MORE, DANTE. See you there.

We stopped for a light lunch on the way to our hotel, passed the gorgeous cathedral from which we are only a few steps, and checked in. It’s lovely, and will be a wonderful place to rest for two nights.

Little did we know, the hotel is also built around Roman ruins, discovered when the builders were digging at the site.

Downstairs you will find:

Kitchen ✔️

Vending area ✔️

Breakfast ✔️

Bicycle parking ✔️

Roman ruins ✔️

That’s just not something we see much of in the states. 

Once we were showered and settled, and the hotel was finished with our 7€ laundry service (ANOTHER MIRACLE), we met the crew for dinner. Jose and Dante, Toby and Rachel, and a sampling of other new friends from around the world. 5 countries at one table. Jose led us in song (of course), taking the time to write two copies of the lyrics for he and Dante to hold as we sang along. The name of the restaurant is Cielito Lindo, derived from the lyrics of this song. The employees were absolutely BEAMING behind the counter. 

We laughed and talked and ate the best Mexican food I’ve ever eaten (and Jose said it tastes like home, so I don’t think you can get a more ringing endorsement than that). My heart and soul was filled to the brim. 

We all walked back to the cathedral square, where we said goodbye to most of the group for probably the last time. Most are moving on tomorrow, getting a day ahead of us, and we’re unlikely to close that gap. But once again, we’re connected forever. 

It’s nights and moments like this that make the Camino what it is. Pure, honest connection. And it doesn’t get much better than that.