Ponferrada

10:30pm

Hotel Los Templarios 

The scenery today was absolutely spectacular. Just stunning. And I extra appreciated it as we descended down through the mountains after leaving El Acebo, because it was TREACHEROUS. After yesterday’s rocky hills, we opted for the slightly longer but smooth winding road down the mountain rather than straight down over the ankle-breaker rocks. Easier on the feet, but not on the mind. It was so mentally exhausting to walk with no shoulder, around each and every turn hoping there won’t be a car coming faster than we can prepare for. Holy moly. Not to mention when you’re walking with someone who’s at the top of the list of people you don’t want to be hit by a car. 

Oh, and then when I was really reaching my limit of stress, I fell. Fell down. On the ground. On my knee. So I left some blood and knee flesh on the road. And that led to a few more F words and some tears. Stress and pain and fear tears. The best kind! Yikes. The only option was to keep on keepin on, so we patched it up and eased on down the road. Finally we reached Molinaseca for a nice long break. A coffee and second breakfast of tortilla (again). This little town by the river is absolutely adorable, and it was a great place to take a few deep breaths after the morning’s shananigans.

The rest of our walk into Ponferrada was just as beautiful. Gorgeous rolling hills covered with trees, adorable country homes and gardens, and views of Ponferrada as we approached around the edge of the city. One problem though - nearly had a bathroom  emergency without a bathroom in sight (people seem to appreciate when I get real on this blog, so be careful what you wish for). Now listen, I’m not afraid of your average, every day nature toilet. But this situation was a bit more complicated, and it was a wiiiiiiiide open field of view with dozens of other pilgrims and  nowhere to hide. Without going into too much detail... I have never walked faster. I powered up the last hill into town as if my life depended on it. And it sort of felt like it did. And by golly, I made it. 

All I can say is that you know you must really love the scenery and day in general if a skinned knee and potty emergency doesn’t take away from its glory!

After a shower and laundry and accidental nap (that really is the best kind), we set out to tour the incredible castle that greeted us as we entered town, followed by delicious pizza and ice cream. In my experience, you just don’t find a better view than that from a castle. 

[physics guy gets to survey a trebuchet!]

It was so nice to walk a little shorter day today, right around 20km. Ponferrada is a beautiful city, and we loved walking around its charming streets.  

We’ve been walking for a month. 

A MONTH! 

We’ve covered the distance of Washington and then some, and it’s so weird to be closing in on the home stretch. How can it be??? I can’t wait to see what the rest of our adventure has in store.