Biarritz + St. Jean Pied de Port

10:00am 

Biarritz, France

I’m currently sitting on a cute little window bench outside a cute little salon, while my dad is inside the post office just a couple doors down mailing ahead some items we won’t need until Iceland on our trip home. While we waited for the post office to open I trekked up the street in search of a croissant (we won’t be in France very long... gotta get while the gettin’s good). It was a smash success, and I found a place with a coffee + croissant special. It’s like they were waiting for me. 

This croissant. It’s everything I wanted and more. 

11:00am

Aboard the bus to St. Jean Pied de Port 

This trip has already surprised me. I wasn’t prepared for the mental challenges of our travel day and all it entailed. It feels ridiculous to complain about. I’m leaving for an almost-2-month-long trip in Europe. I can handle a travel day! But my lack of sleep and food and the fact that I’m about to start my period (sorry folks... but actually no I’m not because that’s a very important part of this story and my mental state) started to play some pretty wicked tricks on me. Like, asking myself “Hey, WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING??” Two months is a long time. I loooove to travel. I love to see beautiful new little towns and checking out their parks and bakeries and coffee and all of it. But two months is a long time. To be away from home and friends and family and my brand new dream job. And when you’re running on zero sleep and not much food and period brain... it’s a lot. And my chin may or may not have quivered a time or two when I thought about what I’m getting myself into. 

We arrived in Biarritz as zombies, still in a fog and ready for sleep. As we got ready for bed and this morning, I was still kinda reeling with anxiety. 

But then we woke up. And we walked out of our hotel. And we walked to the post office, and we walked to the train station, and every minute we walked, and with every cafe/bakery/pharmacy we passed, I felt my heart and spirit lift. 

I don’t have anywhere to be at any specific time. There is no rush, there is no hurry. The journey is the reason we’re here. 

I’m hot and sweaty, 

I’m still foggy-brained and unsure of what’s to come,

And I’m so, so happy. 

11:00pm

Cafe Ttipia, St. Jean Pied de Port 

After an afternoon of exploring and receiving our St. Jean credential stamp, followed by a real nice nap and shower, we set out for an evening stroll along the river, as recommended by our Camino guidebook. My parents know me well enough to know that I would want to see and soak in EVVVVERYTHING I can about EVVVVERY little town we pass through. It makes my heart sing. We walked over a Roman bridge, built by, you know, THE ROMANS, along the river, and back into town just in time to hear a spectacular choral performance happening inside the church. Of course we had to stop in. The ticket collector in the back gave me a nod that I took to mean, “Don’t worry about a ticket,” and we took our seats in a back pew. It was almost overwhelming. Here we were, in the church situated directly by the start of our Way, listening to music similar to that which people listened to in these very seats, thousands of years ago. And it was so beautiful. It was hard to hold back tears. 

Just when we thought the show was over, the choir walks out of the church ahead of the crowd and sang as we exited. They sang what must be traditional or well-known French choral music, because members of the crowd were singing and clapping along. To my right, the beautiful cobblestone hill of old town St. Jean and the musicians, and to my left... the Way. The same arch we will pass under tomorrow.

And here I sit, enjoying a mini fromage sandwich, sangria, and chocolate crepe (OH MY) with my dad to close out the day. 

I know this journey won’t be easy. And at times I’m sure I will have a major baditude. But what today has taught me already is that it’s true what they say about this trip. The Camino provides. Oh, how it provides. 

Now, to sleep before we set off. Bonne nuit!