Atapuerca

Another lovely day on the Camino. 

We had a great breakfast at our albergue, and snuck in just in time before a TON of pilgrims filled the place. All the bars in the previous town were still closed, apparently. 

The walk started with more climbing, but I commented to my dad that I am feeling significantly stronger and more fit than at the start of the trip, and that he seemed to be too! He wasn’t certain that was true of himself until we got to the next round of climbs, which was much steeper and longer. And he killed it. And commented at the top, "Ok... I’m definitely getting stronger too." Again, so proud of him. 

At the top of the most significant hill of the day, I was looking at a monument built to memorialize 300 people who lost their lives during the Spanish civil war (it was beautiful) when I heard, "Andie??" And it was Alice! Alice from yesterday, whose company made the time pass so quickly! So lovely to see her again. She joined us at our picnic table where we were having a little break, and as we chatted, I looked over to see the pilgrims cresting the hill we had just conquered. 

I recognized one woman from the last couple nights at albergues. We hadn’t talked much, but we exchanged a few pleasantries. In Grañon, where the magical singing experience took place, she acted as a Spanish-French interpreter for instructions at dinner. But I think she’s French, because that’s the language I hear her speaking most often. So when I saw her at the top of the hill, I smiled, waved, and yelled "Bonjour!" To which she replied, "Bonjour, mon ami!" And then this exchange took place:

Me: "How are you?"

Her: "I’m ok."

Me: "Well, you’re here! You made it up this big hill!"

Her: "... Can I have a hug?"

Me (immediately walking over): "Of course! Are you having a rough day?"

Her (letting out a huge defeated sigh with tears in her eyes: "Yeah."

And we hugged. The best, most genuine, tightest hug. She was crying, I was crying. 

Me: "I’m sorry."

Her: "Don’t be! It’s a good day. Thank you, thank you, thank you."

Me: "Buen Camino."

Her: "Buen Camino, my darling."

And then she walked on. We ran into each other several times the rest of the day, and happen to be staying in the same place tonight. Every time I’ve seen her, she either winks at me or calls me "my darling." I don’t even know her name yet. But I’ll never forget that hug. 

Alice walked with us the rest of the day, and even one town past where she intended to stay, so we could finish our evening together. We all checked in at the albergue, showered, and headed down the road to a bar for a drink before dinner at a restaurant for which I had read amazing reviews. And it did NOT. DISAPPOINT. The most amazing pilgrim’s menu awaited us (a fixed price 3-course meal typically including wine), including the most incredible vegetarian options. All three of us ordered the goat cheese salad for our first course, which was divine. My dad ordered curry lentils for his entree (made with herbs from an on-site garden which our amazing server Nacho pointed out to us!), Alice ordered Thai chicken, and I had an INCREDIBLE dish consisting of grilled peppers, cheese fondant, and a poached egg. I couldn’t tell you what it was, but I can tell you it blew my mind. For dessert we all chose pineapple-lemon sorbet and I’m telling you, I couldn’t believe they could do EVERYTHING so expertly. And locally sourced. And ALL for the price of what just the wine alone would have cost us in the states. It’s just heaven. And GET THIS: Atapuerca is best known for being the town in which the remains of the earliest human beings in Europe were found! Dating back nearly one million years. I don’t know about you, but I find this fascinating. And the best part of this little history lesson is that our amazing restaurant is called Como-sapiens. 

See what they did there???

After dinner was pretty much bed time, after a long day. Tomorrow we walk into Burgos, and then take a REST DAY! Much needed and hard earned.

Today was a beautiful lesson in the Camino’s provision: you never know when one small moment can leave a lasting impact. A hug when it’s needed most. A smile. A kind word. I hope not to soon forget how simple it can be to create a safe space for those around me. 

Oh, and happy 4th of July. Speaking of safe space, my hope and desperate prayer is that our nation will become one. For ANYONE seeking refuge.