Ventosa

9pm
Albergue San Saturnino

Today was pretty wonderful. Post-meltdown turned out to be pretty peaceful and lovely. Ha! It started out pretty sleepy and sluggish as the mornings often do, but our trek out of the fast-paced Logroño led us through a beautiful park and nature preserve, which felt like coming home after our big city night. I fueled up with a Diet Coke at a trailside cafe in the park, and I was a new woman. We got a later start than we intended yet again, but this proved to be divine intervention, as we ran into some Camino friends we hadn’t connected with in a few days and had been wondering about.

First, Ramon.
Ramon is calm and quiet, a man of few words at first, but it has been a joy to get to know him. He is a professional photographer, has lived in big cities in the US, but was born in Spain and has been living in Madrid the past 4 years where he has an in-home studio. Ramon is documenting his journey with the most spectacularly beautiful photos, including portraits of fellow peregrinos. We ran into him just outside of Logroño and walked with him (and his cousin, visiting for the weekend) for a bit on our way into the next little town of Navarette.

Along the way, as I was asking him about his photography, he said, “Hey, I was thinking, maybe I could take your photo?” Uhhhhh YEAH YOU CAN, Ramon. Are you kidding?? I kept my cool a little better than that and tried not to pee my pants with excitement because I’ve seen his work and it’s UNREAL. He snapped the shot, wrote down my email address, and off the went. We ran into them again at a coffee shop down the road, where he showed us the finished product and sent it to me. Needless to say, it nearly brought tears to my eyes to have such a gorgeous documentation of this beautiful journey, and I will cherish it forever.

Do yourself a favor and visit Ramon’s website at www.rppstudio.com and/or his Instagram @rppstudio to check out more of his stunning work.

Not long before the end of our walk, we also ran into our friends from Korea, filming their band documentary! It was so nice to reunite with them, because we thought they were miles and miles ahead of us, and there’s really something special about connecting with people with whom you’ve shared this entire journey. They were so excited to see us too, and I hope it happens several more times before this trip is done.

It was an extreeeemely humid, muggy day today, and one of the band guys said it best: “This day is one of the hard ones... it’s like swimming.” Couldn’t have said it better myself. But it was absolutely stunning, walking through vineyard after vineyard.

 

We swam into our destination for the night, the adorable town of Ventosa, around 2:30pm. It was SO nice to be done walking early enough to have a leiseurely afternoon and evening, and this place is absolutely beautiful.

We have another private room and bathroom for the very affordable price of 35€, had a great dinner consisting of mushroom linguini, bread (always bread), beer, and ice cream bars, and I got to FaceTime with some of my loves back home. It’s days like this that remind us why we walk through the hard times.

The sweet stuff is that much sweeter.

Viana + Logroño

1pm
Café San Juan, Viana
Walking conditions have been pretty excellent so far today. The weather is being kind to us, with cloud coverage and a nice breeze. We checked out a gorgeous and iconic church on our way out of Torres del Río, and while there we met our first Oregonians of the trip, here from The Dalles! A husband and wife duo, Marty and Joan. Marty mentioned something about having attended WSU, and he and my dad compared Coug patches on their packs. It was pretty cute, I gotta say.

We’re stopped in Viana for a lunch break currently, and this town has really surprised me. Most of the small towns we walk through are pretty sleepy while we pass, with a couple places open for food but not much else. Viana is absolutely buzzing with people! We walked through a beautiful little outdoor market and up into the main town square, where I swear every member of this town must be sitting in tables outside of every cafe and enjoying the town square. It’s delightful. We had a lovely lunch, which I again topped off with ice cream, and now we’re preparing to take off again for Logroño. A beautiful day so far, and a welcome break from the harsh elements.

10pm
Pension Saint Mateo, Logroño 
Ohhhhh boy. What an afternoon and evening. The rest of our walk was a lot like the first half into Vianna; not too hot and not too hilly. But it was long. Longer than we really visualized. By the time we found our place for the night, showered, and got ourselves ready for dinner, we were beyond exhausted and hAngry. It took trips into 4 cafes before we gave up on finding something vegetarian and decided to just go to a grocery store to get supplies for dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow. Neither of us were the best versions of ourselves, and things were hustlin’ and bustlin’ around us, so my nerves and anxiety were starting to get the best of me.

Remember how I said I was pleasantly surprised by how lively Viana was when we passed through at lunch? Yeah, I wasn’t excited about the liveliness of Logroño. It really overwhelmed me in fact. As soon as we got back to the albergue, we tried and failed at FaceTiming with my mom, and apparently that was my last straw. As my chin quivered sitting on my bed, trying soooo hard to shut it off, my dad looked over and his sweet "How are you doing sweetie?" sent me over the edge. My parents have that effect on me (and I think I can speak for my sister when I say her too), because they just get us. They pay attention. They know when we’re on the edge, when to press for answers, and when to let it go. And it’s not lost on me how lucky we are to have that. To be truly SEEN and HEARD by them. And I’m so grateful.

{By the way, I need to take a moment to say how proud I am of my dad. He is an absolute trooper up and down these hills and over the miles and miles and miles. This crap is hard for me, very hard, and I have 30 years on him. Not to mention all he has overcome with the auto-immune disease that used to inhibit his ability to even get dressed. He has persevered, and continues to maintain a positive attitude and overall air of contentedness. I am so, so proud of him and impressed every day}

After my first camino cry, my dad validated my overwhelmed heart and expressed his understanding of the way I was feeling. This journey is beautiful and magical and incredible and also HAAAARRRRRDDDD. Both physically and mentally hard. It’s really easy to think of the many many MANY miles ahead of us and let it suffocate me in the harder moments. But I sorta had a realization during our walk today, when we were going through a really not pretty industrial area, and my dad said, "This is the kind of stuff some people cab through, but I don’t mind walking it." And I said, "Sometimes life ain’t pretty, and you can’t cab through it." And it really made sense to me in that moment. In so many ways, this Camino is one giant metaphor for life itself. It’s not a vacation. It’s not a break from reality (though it feels that way sometimes, with this simple lifestyle and repetitive routine).

It is life. It is beauty, and peace, and connection, and euphoria, and sweaty, and stinky, and difficult, and trying.

And you can’t skip the ugly parts.

There they will be.

There they will always be.

Ugly and unavoidable.

But gosh, they sure highlight the beauty and light by comparison.

Torres del Río

9pm

Hostal Rural San Andres 

We got a rather slow start out of our amazing albergue this morning, a little later than perhaps we should have been, but it was a nice slow patio breakfast and chat with our hosts. The first half of the day was really nice, fairly flat and nice and breezy all morning. WAY easier walking conditions. 

Halfway through the long stretch to Los Arcos, the first town after we left, we came upon the most amazing little food truck and seating area to rest and eat. While enjoying my delicious meal of Aquarius, bocadillo, and coffee, I looked up to see a familiar face walking our way. It was Carly, from Ohio, who we met on the bus into St. Jean on the very first day of our adventure! We hadn’t seen her since we arrived that day, and it was so fun to catch up and compare notes on the first legs of our respective journeys. 

We continued on with Carly for a few more miles after our delightful stop, chatting the whole way. The time passed so quickly, and soon we were in Los Arcos, Carly’s stop for the night. We parted ways with her, rested for a bit, and stepped into a spectacular cathedral for a few moments before taking off again. 

10:45am (Friday)

Somewhere between Torres del Río and Viana

Not once but twice I tried and failed to finish this post about yesterday’s trip to TDR when my app crashed and I lost it 🙄 the long and the short of it is we enjoyed some much needed rest, I soaked my achin’ calves in the very cold and magnificent pool, and our dinner off the pilgrim’s menu was lovely. It was a great night of rest and now we’re off to Logroño! 

Villamayor de Monjardín

Today was lovely.

We decided before we went to bed last night that we would make today a shorter day, after our grueling trek yesterday in the heat. We got up early enough to catch the tail end of a beautiful sunrise, and mozied our way into Estella for a delicious breakfast of tortilla y cafe con leche. Becoming a classic around here. A couple Camino friends happened to be in the same cafe (typical), so we chatted with them and then hit the old dusty trail once again. Highlights of the journey include the famous wine fountain - YEP YOU READ THAT RIGHT - passing deer and frogs and horses oh my, and the freedom to take our sweet time at lunch (when I enjoyed french fries with my sandwich and an ice cream bar to top it off because DUH I’ve earned it).





When we arrived at our destination for the night around 1:30, we learned they don’t open until 3. No worries, it was the perfect time to take off my shoes and socks and slip into my sandals and walk down the street to a little market for water and Aquarius. DO YOU KNOW WHAT AQUARIUS IS?? Because I didn’t before this trip and I’m now obsessed. It’s some sort of electrolyte drink that tastes SO good in the middle of a walk, let me tell ya.



We waited on the delightful patio with fellow pilgrims until they opened, received our room assignment (originally a bunk room until we realized it was only 10€ extra for a private room with two beds AND a practically private balcony... yes please), and I took a nap. We were then treated to the most incredible meal yet, pasta with fresh veggies and an incredible coconut milk sauce. Just perfect.



I sat up on the balcony and talked to my sweet sis for a little bit, and then joined in for the most beautiful meditation time in the most beautiful room in this most beautiful 400-year-old building. It was so peaceful and relaxing and lovely and safe and free and supportive and uplifting. There are some truly remarkable people on this journey, and we didn’t arrive in this place today by accident. Once again, all I can say is I am so, so thankful.



Tomorrow is a new and potentially longer day, and something tells me it will bring with it new life and lessons.

Villatuerta

Today I yelled at a fly. 

As in a bug. I yelled at a bug. 

But it really had it coming. 

We left Obanos a little later than we’d hoped, but still early-ish. It was a stunning walk through Puente la Reina and just beyond, until it started to get REAL with some intense heat and humidity and yep, you guessed it, UPHILL CLIMBS. Plural. At the top of the second or third big hill, when temps had begun to reach less than ideal heights, these relentless flies were circling and circling and landing on my face and sticking to my sunscreen sweat and flying up my nose, and before I realized what I was doing I yelled STTTOOOOPPPPP! At a fly. I yelled at a freaking insect. And you know what, it felt good. I have no regrets. 

After the bug altercation, we moved on to bigger and definitely not better things. Hills, mostly. It was grueling. At one point I was so hot and tired I was about to cry, and actually thought to myself, "No. You can’t waste fluids on that." That’s what we’re dealing with. Sweat was already streaming down my face like tears, so I swallowed my tears and pressed on. 

We were still rewarded with beauty every step of the way. Vineyards, impressive rock formations, the most adorable cities situated on the most adorable hillsides. 

We made it to the town nearest to our destination in a bit of a pathetic state, low on water and morale. It’s amazing what an electrolyte drink, water refill, and a few moments of rest can do. Two of our Camino friends Philipp and Sofia (with whom we usually cross paths usually 2-3-4 times a day, it’s pretty incredible) once again crossed our path in this cafe, looking just as spent as we were, if not worse off. They couldn’t decide if they would press on or just crash at the albergue attached to the cafe for the night, as temperatures were only climbing in the 3pm sun and things were not looking good. We said our goodbyes to them and continued on, walking about another hour and a half to our beautiful albergue, La Casa Mágica. Much to our amazement and delight, they too decided to brave the elements and we all ended up here. I’m lounging with them on the terrace as I write this, and have had the most wonderful hammock chats with Philipp about Germany, his home country, and how free he feels on the Camino having just left an unfulfilling job. He and Sofia met at breakfast one morning, having barely begun this walk. She had been baaaaaadly sunburned and was feeling a bit discouraged, and they had both planned to walk alone. Philipp was also alone, and saw that they might both benefit from some companionship, and just like that they’re taking this journey together, at least for now.  [the photo below is from yesterday during one of our many shared rests, but I’m adding it here so you can get a picture of these little peaches]. That’s just the kind of magic that happens around here. 

Holy moly, this place has been incredible. It’s so peaceful here. 

The hospitaleros take pride in being a vegetarian-friendly stop, and are famous for their veggie paella, which was UNBELIEVABLE. I sat next to a woman from England, living in Ireland, who we met in Orisson on the first night. It was so nice to see her again. Topics of discussion included childhood cancer (after explaining for the millionth time what a Child Life Specialist is... which I genuinely enjoy every time), Grace & Frankie, Noam Chomsky, the political climate in Northern Ireland, and Donald Trump. If I had a dollar for every time someone has asked me what the h-e-double-hockey-sticks is going on with politics in our country... yikes. But at least I can let them know I’m just as confused as they are. And also, I would be shocked to find someone walking the Camino who supports our current leadership. I can’t quite put into words why that is... Do with that what you will.

These communal meals (whether intentional or accidental) continue to boggle my mind. The topics of conversation are never trivial or small talk. It’s meaningful, it’s life-giving. It’s wonderful. What I thought might be at times an introvert’s nightmare has been anything but. 

Tomorrow will be a shorter walking day, about 15 kilometers. It’s so stinking hot and this next stretch is long and lacks shade and resources. We are listening to our bodies and will hopefully have a little less suffocating day in that heat. Turns out Philipp and Sofia are planning to leave the same time we are. Our trusty Camino tribe. Imagine that. 

Here’s to a new day and adventure. 

Obanos

8:30pm
Restaurante Centro San Guillermo 

It was beautiful and cool as we left Pamplona this morning, but then things started to climb. Both in elevation and in temperature. Up and up and up we walked, and up and up and up the thermometer crept. Until we reached the beautiful overlook at Aldo del Perdon, the coolest monument to pilgrims. Gorgeous iron silhouettes stand as an homage to early pilgrims, and a monument to all, past and present. It’s breathtaking, and a worthwhile reward for our hard work. 

We had a snack, rested our feet, reapplied our sunscreen for the long and rocky descent, and reunited with some wonderful Camino friends. Including the most amazing group of Korean musicians, who are walking the Camino with their GIGANTIC traditional Korean instruments to play along the way and film a documentary. We met them on our first night in Orisson, and have reunited throughout the trip since then. They boggle my mind with their mental and physical strength and determination to create such wonderful art, and I’m so thankful we met them. PS look out for the Korean Gipsy documentary, because your girl may or may not have a small role. Heyohhhhhhh!

I was treated to a very sweet moment on the way up the hill to the monument too: A young boy was cycling up the rocky path with his dad (and boggling my mind the whole time), when he had to get off and push his bike (about a million miles after I would have had to get off and push my bike). A lady walking near him, a complete stranger, immediately walked up beside him, grabbed the back of his bike seat, and helped him push it a few meters before the boy’s dad came running back down from the top when he realized his son wasn’t right behind him. When he reached his boy, he immediately wrapped him in the HUGEST hug, kissed him all over his face, and expressed his pride in how far he’d come, before grabbing the bike and taking over the ascent. It was the most loving, tender moment and I teared up as I watched (shocking, I know) this display of father-son affection.

Sidebar: I wish we didn’t have such narrow minded and conservative masculinity and affection standards as a whole in our country. It’s not just this incident that makes me think this, it’s several interactions I’ve witnessed over here. Everyone is greeted with hugs, kisses, arms around their shoulders, etc. Men, women, children alike. Why are things so different at home? Why can’t two men embrace so affectionately outside of romantic relationships? Why do I see so much more tenderness and affection between dads and their daughters than dads with their sons? I realize this isn’t the case for everyone. I get that. But it’s just been on my mind today, and I really appreciate Spanish culture for this. 

After a brief cameo in the aforementioned Korean Gipsy documentary, we pressed on, down the steep rocky hill. We walked, and walked, and walked, through a few little towns, until we reached our final destination for the evening, Obanos. This is where our weary bods hit the jackpot. I booked our Albergue, Hostal Atseden, our first night in Pamplona. It has incredible reviews, looked absolutely beautiful, and the price was right at $28 USD for two beds for the night and breakfast for two in the morning! Too good. It’s a few kilometers short of Puente la Reina, where most of our Camino crew ended up tonight, but we just couldn’t pass up the reviews and price. And we are SO GLAD we went with this place. For starters, we are the ONLY PEOPLE HERE. Not another single soul. It’s as if we rented a beautiful AirBnb for the night. The bunks are situated so brilliantly, away from any major windows so as to get plenty dark, and each set has privacy curtains in the hall. We both got to pick bottom bunks since nobody else is here, and with two immaculate shower rooms, bathrooms (with double sinks) and lockers, we had the unique experience of not needing to take turns showering so one of us could keep an eye on our stuff. We both had entire shower rooms and restrooms to ourselves and soaked it all in. 

  

 

   

After some time in their beautiful lawn while we waited for our laundry, we walked up the street to one of the only open restaurants, only to strike gold once again when we found veggie burgers on the menu and the Spain vs. Portugal World Cup game on TV. It’s soooo fun to watch with locals, though I understand almost nothing they’re saying and yelling at the screen.

We’re heading back to our private oasis for the night, where our hostess will have set out a spread for breakfast and coffee in the morning. 

Life on the Camino is so simple and so sweet. It’s calming my anxiety and quieting my mind, and I am thankful, thankful, thankful.